After the body, sleeve and collar parts are brought to shape by the inclusion of hand-gathered ruffles, the next task is to adjoin them all onto the central shoulderdisk, which was modeled directly onto the body and foreseen with a layer of sturdy cotton that strengthens the disk in holding its weighty drapings. As the effect with which the depth of the ruffle pleat shortens its drop-length differs on various sides of the body, the gathering is worked high into the wide seam allowance, allowing for alterations, as getting the intended waist-line turns into a trial and error process of basting, fitting and improving the torso-seam, which is then to be repeated for the sleeves.