Tag Archives: couture

Simple Back Correction


Bought shirt, untailored.


Drawing darts in the back.


Basting, stitching ironing.


Elegantly tailored shirt.

Buying Gothic clothes is difficult, especially when they have to be combinable with made-to-measure items that are exact in size; making it often more rewarding to – instead of looking for a perfect fit – keep an eye out for minimal effort candidates, that can be easily accustomed into fitting one’s own shape and wardrobe.

Neckline Seam

shoulder-bodice for gothic art nouveau cape design

The 8-piece bodice, readily made..

standing and falling collar for classic gothic cape design

Upper- and under-collar, all set..

basting and sewing ineterfaced collar to a cape bodice

Their mutual seam, in progress..

in-progress gothic collar and cape bodice.

The result, with added trimline.

Sewing the under-collar onto the bodice, making sure that all its bias layers show a correct direction whilst including an overlying one within the seam; leaving the upper-collar to fall freely until the lining is attached.

Variable Waves

Sewing a gathered seam onto a flat one.After the body, sleeve and collar parts are brought to shape by the inclusion of hand-gathered ruffles, the next task is to adjoin them all onto the central shoulderdisk, which was modeled directly onto the body and foreseen with a layer of sturdy cotton that strengthens the disk in holding its weighty drapings. As the effect with which the depth of the ruffle pleat shortens its drop-length differs on various sides of the body, the gathering is worked high into the wide seam allowance, allowing for alterations, as getting the intended waist-line turns into a trial and error process of basting, fitting and improving the torso-seam, which is then to be repeated for the sleeves.

Collar Works

Testing high standing collar design using paper prototype.Cutting collar from high quality canvas interfacing in bias direction4 parts that make up a high standing interfaced cape collar

Contrary to the red-finished version of the cape, the new design shows a collar that has standing and falling sections in separate pieces, keeping the same semblance, but replacing the vertical middle-back seam with a horizontal one that tops the construction, a solution, far more suitable for this kind of high-texture fabric. Next to adding a lot of extra work to the equation, it also allows to vary between thread direction for visible and invisible sides of upper and under collar, delivering a superior roll whilst upholding continuity in grain.

Highly decorated upper and undercollar for gothic cape designbaste-sewing alongside manually added canvas interfacingflattening seam allowances through stitches before turning collar inside out

It’s Gathering Time

Gathering sleeve on blue satin gothic man's shirt. Before the blue blouse can be assembled, its pieces need to receive their gathering, which for both body and sleeve parts occurs within the hemline, above the top-seam and at the piece’s middle for tailoring.

In order to obtain an even and fluid flux of fabric, all gathering is done by hand in a technique comprising of sewing in sets of two lines of equal-sized stitches (the combination of which ensures the material will continuously stay in place) which’ threads are gently pulled outwards, both ends at the same time, sliding and redividing wavy ruffles over the remaining width until the ideal pattern measurements are reached.

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