Buying Gothic clothes is difficult, especially when they have to be combinable with made-to-measure items that are exact in size; making it often more rewarding to – instead of looking for a perfect fit – keep an eye out for minimal effort candidates, that can be easily accustomed into fitting one’s own shape and wardrobe.
Tag Archives: couture
Neckline Seam
Variable Waves
After the body, sleeve and collar parts are brought to shape by the inclusion of hand-gathered ruffles, the next task is to adjoin them all onto the central shoulderdisk, which was modeled directly onto the body and foreseen with a layer of sturdy cotton that strengthens the disk in holding its weighty drapings. As the effect with which the depth of the ruffle pleat shortens its drop-length differs on various sides of the body, the gathering is worked high into the wide seam allowance, allowing for alterations, as getting the intended waist-line turns into a trial and error process of basting, fitting and improving the torso-seam, which is then to be repeated for the sleeves.
Collar Works
Contrary to the red-finished version of the cape, the new design shows a collar that has standing and falling sections in separate pieces, keeping the same semblance, but replacing the vertical middle-back seam with a horizontal one that tops the construction, a solution, far more suitable for this kind of high-texture fabric. Next to adding a lot of extra work to the equation, it also allows to vary between thread direction for visible and invisible sides of upper and under collar, delivering a superior roll whilst upholding continuity in grain.
It’s Gathering Time
Before the blue blouse can be assembled, its pieces need to receive their gathering, which for both body and sleeve parts occurs within the hemline, above the top-seam and at the piece’s middle for tailoring.
In order to obtain an even and fluid flux of fabric, all gathering is done by hand in a technique comprising of sewing in sets of two lines of equal-sized stitches (the combination of which ensures the material will continuously stay in place) which’ threads are gently pulled outwards, both ends at the same time, sliding and redividing wavy ruffles over the remaining width until the ideal pattern measurements are reached.
Recent User Comments