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Raglan Inset

Raglan trapezoid inset piece

The red Raglan Blouse was made as such a narrow fit, that it came out with a slight issue in the armpit-area where the velvet would not allow the arm to be lifted any higher than the shoulder’s level, a difficult predicament for festive activities where movability is still prime, which is why I opted to rework the armpit, inserting a rounded trapezoid piece, now cut with the material’s stretch direction oriented along the length of the arm, forming a gradually expanding bridge that connects body and sleeve within the lower half of the raglan armhole.

Shoulder Adjustment

Before CorrectionAfter Correction

Overseeing the corrections on the Marquis Coat in a second fitting session showed a noticeable crookedness throughout the upper torso area, caused by the sleeve, seemingly tilting the whole of the coat backwards; a mishap often encountered in confection, yet easily correctable by redividing the ease on the upperside of the sleeve’s head to slightly turn the orientation of the sleeve within the armhole, preparing the coat for sewing.

Simply the Best

Marquis Coat Horse-Hair Collar interfacing

As a didactic example it was recently shown to me how horse-hair interfacing is properly fixated onto the under-collar, using a fascinating, yet strenuous, pattern of minuscule stitches attaching the inter-facing whilst forming the collar around your hand as you move, allowing you to pull both bias-cut layers simultaneously into a round fold, bestowing the rigid collar with an elegant roll-over.

First Fitting

Marquis Coat, assembled in baste, with pins placed to mark corrections.
With the Marquis Coat assembled in baste, it was time to call in my secondary model for making primary corrections.

Perfecting the overall fit demanded some taking in on each seam around the waist as well as slightly heightening the waistline itself to better manifest the godet-drop onto the hips and backslit.

With minor redrawing of the shoulderpiece, rounding its seams to gain more natural lines, next was selecting the right pads and adjusting the otherwise immaculate sleeve‘s head accordingly.

Having the spot-on collar directly cut in coarse interfacing, a small carefully tied scarf was used to determine the placement of the gilet-closure, providing the proportions to set the garment’s length, pinning hemline in place measuring from the ground up.

Shirt Lining

Hemline and front-facing hand-secured on inner tafeta layer.Collar and rear-fold secured on tafeta, layers locked together in arm-hole.

With the multi-fabric aspect exerted to full benefit, the lower taffeta layer automatically doubles for lining, which is extra helpful for securing folds as well as facing and hemline in place, showing only structural seams between conscientiously molded perennial pieces, locking the layers of fabric definitely together.

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