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cutting fabric using advanced vest patternsall vest pieces fully prepared for assemblage

After separately cutting the pieces for the Rider Vest they undergo a set of pre-production procedures, steaming any wrinkles out of the dense black velvet, carefully ironing the fold-lines into place, leaving the pieces ready for assemblage as soon as the pressed-on interfacing sets in.


vest patterns traced onto cottonassembling prototype in bastetaking corrections after fitting

Having the principal patterns drawn, the next thing to do is tracing the vest‘s pieces onto cotton, working out a textile base for trying out the new design, applying pins to adjust the fit where necessary, redrawing the seam-lines on the cotton using chalk to eventually copy the correct alterations back onto the patterns.

The Black Shirt

The Black Shirt, open collarThe Black Shirt, front with jabotThe Black Shirt, sleeve back

The original black shirt was my first experiment at elaborate shirt-making and was based upon a regular box-placket shirt-body with side-insets providing a perfectly tailored fit. The in the shoulder and wrist-seams gathered sleeves are tied down in mid-biceps with a fixated ribbon, supplying a slight puffed effect, and are elongated from the wrist onwards by bias-tape trimmed ruffles.

Most notable is perhaps the accompanying circle-cut jabot, by accordio-folds fixated within a strap re-placeable under a secluded layer in the shirt’s collar, and which is like the ruffles, also finished by matching black satin bias-tape.

Attaching Lining

Lining the Slanted Jacket

Finishing a non-standard hemline, like the concave form on the Slanted Jacket works best when it is stitched off with a likewise-cut strip of the same material, having the actual lining sewn to it with a medium backstitch afterwards.

Apart from obtaining the projected hemline, the addition of the facing-strip comes with some extra dexterity, in this particular case enhancing the pelt-ish intent of the bolero-jacket, unfortunately non-adaptable to the basque-like skirt-appendage for the lower-garment-friction it would bring.

Shaving Fur

Shaving Faux Fur

Prior to sewing faux fur it is advisable to trim all hairs emerging within the seam allowance in order to prevent tangling and produce sleek pressable seams.

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