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Sleeve Pattern

Shortly after posting the preliminary patterns for the Marquis Coat, I realised my initial cut for the tailored sleeve would not ideally sustain the intended design, and even though the structural difference with the alternative coupe displayed in this post might seem abysmal at first, the logical transformations behind it aren’t little at all.

Marquis Coat Sleeve Pattern

The first adaption shifted the bulk of the flow from the upper towards the under sleeve to make the cuff fall on the back of the hand in the dignified manner of a jacket-sleeve, upon which came the realization how wrong it was to have added the godet girth in straight lines, when correctly following the elbow’s curve was even more important here for giving a soft and fluid forwards drop, together with the pieces orienting in a most favorable bias-thread direction matching the inwards folded segments of the complementary godet-piece (wilfullingly cut in straight lines) for allowing the sleeve to fall even further open when lifted and push itself in folds when allowed to drop freely.

Working in Double

Green Veil and tafeta combined as a single material

Combining multiple fabrics into one, when inducted as a form of accentuation it is one thing, but when constructing a complete garment, like the Green Shirt, out of such composite material, extraneous precautions such as locking all pieces individually into baste and keeping their threads aligned into the seams, start forming quite a challenge; in this case, however perhaps, slightly uplifted by the two-layer attribute at direct disposal for holdings folds in place and hiding seam allowances without the introduction of extra lining.

Creating a Hide

The Red Shirt body
Where couture is the art of developing a second skin to encapsulate the body in perfect fit, and deviating from that thought in a variety of stylistic aberrations, it is apprehendable, yet not less remarkable just how evocative a single snapshot from the assemblage process can turn out.

Lengthening Pants

Linen pants, wrong sideLinen pants, right side

My recently acquired well-fitting linen pants needed just a little lengthening, which was most feasibly done using their provided seam allowance by loosening the hemline stitching, enclosing the original hem in a small pleat (1), pressing the remaining fabric back outwards, stitching the new hemline off with a sturdy cotton (2), sewing the later onto the inside of the pleat (3) leaving an impeccable finish before ironing the crease into the newly created faux cuff.


The Rider Vest, last stages of assemblagesecured and stitched-off vest armoholesecured vest hemline and front openingThe most important stitchings determining a garment’s worth are those the eye cannot see, in this particular case the series of cross- and side-stitches fixing the folds within the seam allowance and guiding the later inwards leaving a solid border defining the garment’s edges while allowing ample space for a back-stitch to sew-on the lining.

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