Tag Archives: couture - Page 2

Days of Challenge

Searching minimal waste pattern layout while maintaining perfect shine orientation.

Day 2: finding a flawless layout.

Redrawing pattern pieces, shifting seamlines 6mm to accomodate trim-tape width.

Day 1: Redrawing all patterns.

Using strips of interfacing to strengthen bias seams on loosely woven fabric.

Day 4: Interfacing the seams.

Using carbon and roulette for copying patterns onto raw silk fabric.

Day 3: Cutting the fabric.


No better than the first days into a project to show what impact seemingly aesthetic features can have upon construction; and such is the case for the golden trim-tape that is to be worked-in to overlay one side of the seams on the new cape design, shifting semblance in panel division to its own middle, calling for coherently adjusted versions of all pattern pieces, then to be laid out in perfect correspondence with the nap and shine characteristics of the raw silk, which after cutting, proves to be a very thin and loose weave, extraordinarily prone to deformation through pulling, requiring all seam allowances to become interfaced before handling.

Conjoined Collar

machine-stitching two pleated layers together

..stitched to the fabric collar..

joining two separately pleated pieces in seam

The supportive lining..

pleated collar for silk gothic blouse

..and folded in unison.

baste-sewing pleated layers together

..joined at the base..


The lining construction that supports its shiny counterpart took considerably less effort to make, merging the prosperities of both established methods -maintaining a supple sturdiness without having double seamlines pressing through the soft silk top- in a uniquely prefabricated piece to which the whole blouse can be sown.


how to correct false pleats in expensive fabric
On controlling this delicate fabric for faults I noticed a series of hard folds, pressed deep into the fabric structure from the less than careful way it had been spinned onto its roll, causing false pleats which are better avoided, diminutive as they may seem, as the error inflicted when copying patterns on top of them would be especially bothersome because the impact would differ between the left and right halves of the coupe; a due to strict material usage non-omittable premise, luckily well-correctable through exhaustive steam-pressing upto almost no visibility, re-setting a tranquil outlook to this earliest of producing stages.

Fashioning Fur

Creating a russian-looking Gothic hat from fur fabric.Sewing a gothic fur hat into a diamond shape.

Where the dome construction consists out of horizontal layers, its fabric counterpart establishes the Decahat shape by merging vertical straps of fur, each individually cut and joined to the top piece, providing continuity in pile direction, with little stitches tightening marked edge-lines as to facilitate a genuine polyhedral effect.

Prestine Beauty..

..lies only in the eyes of a beholder capable of recognising true craftsmanship; so when the most difficult of seams is highlighted by the conjunction of contrasting materials placed in frictional pile directions, it takes a person with a most perfectuous drive to complete such travail impeccably… under his own eyes to judge.

Marquis Coat, right shoulderseamMarquis Coat, right shoulderseam

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