Two converse approaches in creating a pleated collar that covers the greater part of the shoulders; the first method succeeding by pleating shoulders and collar separately, leaving just one seam to sew, may it be an incredibly difficult one to perfect; and the other solution consisting of individually tailored collar-incorporating pieces providing a far more esthetically unbreached result, while requiring enormous travail to accomplish.
And you’ll be using the second one?
From the looks of it I’ll be combining both methods. The second one for the silk, and the first for its lining.