Tag Archives: needlework

Inter-framing Windows

Soft canvas interfacing for coats and vests.How to sew canvas interfacing without seams.

For a fitting framing, the gothic windows -just like the collar- are in need of proper interfacing, provided by a venerable form of coat canvas that’s resilient enough to brace the angles but not too brute on the curves.

Finished Armhole

Including lining into the armhole seam without visible allowances.Gothic patchwork construction in silk layered blouse.
The blouse’s armhole: meeting-point of sleeve and body, also needed to capture part of the collar and hold the earlierly hemmed lining, for which was opted to unite all those layers in a single seam and encapsulate their allowances with a hand-sewn bias border as a neat and simple way of finishing this conclusive joining.

Conclusive Cover

Trimming corners

Trimming corners

Attaching border

Attaching border

 
Ready to Merge

Ready to Merge

Securing the seams

Securing the seams

 

Trimming corners and cutting darts before stretching and cross-stitching all seams cleanly opened, leaving no excess material in the way of drawing the now finished cover over its dome construction; after which the newly attached border is to be wrapped over the padded crown, joining the fur directly onto its satin lining.

Stretchable Hem

Hemline finished with freshly ironed stretching border.
In finishing neck-, wrist- and hemline for the tightly fitting red raglan blouse I opted to use borders from strips of the same velveteen fabric, cut evenly along the stretch-direction, stitched onto the piece’s right side using a narrow zig-zag and finely fixed against the wrong side by a loosened hem-stitch, minimally constraining the elastic fibers, allowing the blouse to faultlessly expand over the broader hands, head and shoulders while putting it on.

Scarlet Bonds

Strengthened interface layer basted onto velour's right side, providing a solid pattern to trace while stitching.Turned right-side out, having the seam allowance trimmed and napped, a hard brush is used to press the edges flat maintaining the material tempered under pressurised steam.Closing the ends using precise needlework after the ring has been inserted, using the internal interface layer to project seam allowance onto the bonds backsides.

The from brass rings diverging bonds that grace the scarlet cape proved to be quite a task to make, needing the addition of internal poppeline layers to retain weight and interfacing, meticulous steam-brushing in order to get the seams pressed, to be followed by the laborious hand-work of attaching each bond onto its rings.

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