Tag Archives: patterns

Puzzling Panel


When trying to make maximal use of the little material remaining, dividing the front panel into a conundrum of pieces became the only option; joining leather frame with silk underground to create a natural resource combination that makes mistakes of any kind non-permissible and clarity in marking twice as important.


Patched Panel


Having the perfect material at home is a blessing turned sour when there’s just not enough of it to fulfil the project requirements, even more so when in lack of the time for a trip to the specialist store; sometimes the ideal moment to creatively make the maximum out of what one has and elevate the design to a higher level.

Differential Meetings

Inserting flank piece into gothic cape.Cape design cut up into architectural pieces.

Due to the method by which the golden bias trim emerges from within the seamline to lay over the adjoining piece of fabric; gaining a symmetrical semblance when seamlines meet requires the correct calculation and incorporation of a hidden standoff, a tricky issue that re-manifests for each and every junction on the cape.

Converging Lines

self-drawn pleated pattern for full length skirt.tailored pleat skirt pattern drawing.

Drawing sets of parallel-lines to denote the exact locations of the folds, the backfolds and the foldless parts while using their relation to the side, front and rear centers as key points to fuse the vastly amassing paper pieces together before including tailoring by redirecting the foldlines to deepen the pleats from the hips up.

Derived Pattern

Male gothic long corset battlegear pattern.Taking a moment to expose one of the mathematical challenges within the kind of work I do by deducing the alterations in an edit of the ‘longcorset’ patterns – here on display from back center to front center – in finding the correct way of hemline elongation for the design to work; having the bustier part of the pattern, correct in size and body-shape as developed in a first prototype, and re-approbating it in a cotton test-version cut following a preliminary pattern, brought to length through continuous straight lines in the same manner of lengthening a dress or coat, by trying to change the panels into shapes more adherent to the strong individuality of the – from the hips separately dropping – pieces, introducing small pleats for diverting them towards the flank-side of the outfit and retracing the outcome, combined with esthetical adaptions in order to ideally follow both shape and movement of the leg, thus creating this elaborate cluster of lines, attentively re-sortable into the finalized, fully to the design adjusted contortive-lined pattern, ready to be copied and harvested from the well-rested leather.

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