Monthly Archives: June 2012


Breaching the vicinity on the way back form acquiring the needed sewing supplies and using the opportunity to pay a welcome visit to the city’s local cyberstore and inquire about some of their suitable non-makeables.

Bizzare cyber store, Maastricht

Mysterious Methods

Method for baste-sewing thick leather.Stitching thick 6 oz leather with a regular machine.

As thick leathers are stitched on top of each other rather than through conventional seams, a much tighter baste-method is needed to keep the seams from drifting apart under the pressure of the machine-foot, for which I opted to apply separate lines of top stitching on both pieces and use an extra strong yarn to tensely hook those together on the inner side of the seam, and re-use the same holes to stitch both layers secure.

Derived Pattern

Male gothic long corset battlegear pattern.Taking a moment to expose one of the mathematical challenges within the kind of work I do by deducing the alterations in an edit of the ‘longcorset’ patterns – here on display from back center to front center – in finding the correct way of hemline elongation for the design to work; having the bustier part of the pattern, correct in size and body-shape as developed in a first prototype, and re-approbating it in a cotton test-version cut following a preliminary pattern, brought to length through continuous straight lines in the same manner of lengthening a dress or coat, by trying to change the panels into shapes more adherent to the strong individuality of the – from the hips separately dropping – pieces, introducing small pleats for diverting them towards the flank-side of the outfit and retracing the outcome, combined with esthetical adaptions in order to ideally follow both shape and movement of the leg, thus creating this elaborate cluster of lines, attentively re-sortable into the finalized, fully to the design adjusted contortive-lined pattern, ready to be copied and harvested from the well-rested leather.


black leather cow hide for gothic fashion-wearrough edge of leathercutting 6 oz leather

Conscientiously choosing a lorn corner of the full-grain to test out techniques through cutting and processing collar pieces and get a good feel of the wealthy material before commencing work on the larger structures.

stitching on 6 oz leatherLeather choker-collar piecesSuede Gothic Chocker collar.

Intrinsic Transformation

A chief take-on for 2012 is this long-contemplated design for a tightly fitting full-body leather-construction to combine varying material girths while holding high adaptability through removable and adjoinable segments.

Male gothic leather corset sketch with longdreslike drop. The unique corset-structure is a merger of nine precisely tailored waist-panels, six of which are cut in a continuous floor-length drop while the others sport a composite built allowing the excluding of the lower front and back panels.

Male gothic leather battle suit sketch with added shoulder armor


The panels are layered on top of each other being fixated from chest to hips, falling freely in individual overlapping drops, with the added option of having their hemlines be buttoned together for them to function as a united piece.

Finally, the broad upper-lying flank to narrow underlying quarter piece sequention is repeated for the strong choker-collar that shares its back panels with those of the corset, containing a rump-long zipper as a central fastener for tightening the whole construction and emplacing the breastplate central to its w-shaped bodice.

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