Tag Archives: friday

The Green Shirt

The Green Shirt frontThe Green Shirt backThe Green Shirt closure detail
The Green Shirt shoulder detail
The Green Shirt cuff detail


Formidably combining a grainy veil with taffeta green, this classical shirt exhibits a unique play of vertically, diagonally and horizontally layered over-crossing bonds, while retaining pre-tied ribbons for facile closing.

  DesignPatternsTextilesMethodismBond Layers –                                                                                                
  – LiningFastenersButtonsSpare Bows                                                                                                

Marquis Coat

Marquis Coat sketchThe first of 2012′s pieces I’ll get started on is a cross-section of archetypal early-18th and late-19th-century men’s frock coats, featuring diagonally cut pieces providing extensive flow on the hips, while being tailored fittingly around chest and waist.

Nudging towards higher couture, is the augmentation with shoulder-pieces continuing side and sleeve seam onto a prolific lapel-less collar, demanding the knee-length coat to be worn open, giving leeway to its volume.

This freedom of movement, aggrandized by a with volant finished split in the coat central back back-seam, is copied onto the sleeve, converging in a more contemporary sense of unity, much like the augmentation of the coat with an optionally insertable gilet-closure presenting the opportunity for a more reserved look.

The Black Shirt

The Black Shirt, open collarThe Black Shirt, front with jabotThe Black Shirt, sleeve back

The original black shirt was my first experiment at elaborate shirt-making and was based upon a regular box-placket shirt-body with side-insets providing a perfectly tailored fit. The in the shoulder and wrist-seams gathered sleeves are tied down in mid-biceps with a fixated ribbon, supplying a slight puffed effect, and are elongated from the wrist onwards by bias-tape trimmed ruffles.

Most notable is perhaps the accompanying circle-cut jabot, by accordio-folds fixated within a strap re-placeable under a secluded layer in the shirt’s collar, and which is like the ruffles, also finished by matching black satin bias-tape.

The Picnic Blanket

The Picnic Blanket

A distinct example of a work that came into existence for the lack in finding something suitable, the Picnic Blanket - previously referred to as the “mystery project” – was devised towards hightened sitting comfort as well as design quality.

Bolstered on a padded, impermeable base, the black velvet-brocade frame encovers the construction in which one of differently colored panels of the same cloth can be mounted by the use of attached velcro-strips, allowing a rotation cycle of main blanket colors every three years.

The Rider Basque

Concocted to elongate the front of the Velvet Frock Coat, the rider’s basque is designed to provide sitting comfort whilst guarding the lap.

The Rider Belt Design

Giving an oriental touch, the belt’s frontal panels feature sets of downward curves, providing layered protection of the lap, whilst able to maneuver individually during traversal.

The same goes for the back panels, which cover solely the buttocks, causing no friction with the sitting-surface, yet having a regular coat-level split allowing them to maneuver freely. 


The beltpart itself is hightened towards the front center, producing a more armor-like appearance, together with the lenghtened side panels, providing the construction with a skirt-like span.

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