The semblance of lines on the new cape is achieved from including long straps of half-bias tape between the fabric pieces, by aligning the tape with the seam allowance – measuring exactly half the tape width – before the seam is sewn, and pressing both ends to the same side to create a layover effect of fabric on trim over fabric. The downside of this approach lies however in the material choice, where the slickness of the polyester-satin tape would make it shift while being attached onto the fabric by machine, and just pinning it already created small unseemly waves in the trim’s structure, all these lines, including the full lengths, were to be sewn on to the fabric by hand.
Including Trim
Posted by Discipulus
on September 14, 2012
Glueing would have been another possibility, but in light of the thinness of the fabric and the absorbecy of the trim, a rather unpredictable one, far less compatible with these expensive materials and the classical approach maintained throughout construction.