Drawing sets of parallel-lines to denote the exact locations of the folds, the backfolds and the foldless parts while using their relation to the side, front and rear centers as key points to fuse the vastly amassing paper pieces together before including tailoring by redirecting the foldlines to deepen the pleats from the hips up.
The first of this year’s new experiments is this pleated design for an elegant, yet manly wrap-skirt, to be made from one continuous piece of fabric and brought to shape by the insertion of a mathematical series of folds that are partially sewn-in to open at gradually lower lengths; condensing the seamless wide flow in an almost musical manner, leading a rhythm-guided way to the flat-falling front and back sides; all held in place by a slanting waistguard that carries a double buckle belt construction for closing.
For a fitting framing, the gothic windows -just like the collar- are in need of proper interfacing, provided by a venerable form of coat canvas that’s resilient enough to brace the angles but not too brute on the curves.
Contrary to the red-finished version of the cape, the new design shows a collar that has standing and falling sections in separate pieces, keeping the same semblance, but replacing the vertical middle-back seam with a horizontal one that tops the construction, a solution, far more suitable for this kind of high-texture fabric. Next to adding a lot of extra work to the equation, it also allows to vary between thread direction for visible and invisible sides of upper and under collar, delivering a superior roll whilst upholding continuity in grain.
Prototyping to find the desired shape..
..adding sufficient material to carry it..
Using the availables to mold the non-evident, yet neither far-fethched structure of the shoulder-construction straight onto myself, looking to deduce fitting sewing patterns whilst gaining padding to further incorporate.
..cutting and securing the final form..
..and trying to obtain patterns from it.
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