Category Archives: Technics - Page 3

Magnanimous Suit

As the couture project of my upcoming workyear, this new design of a knee-length suit jacket with matching trousers is to be a unique piece of men’s apparel, set to be created at the highest of standards. Sporting the Romantic-Gunslinger  look with evident touches of futurism, both pants and coat are fully tailored by angular and sharp-edged seamlines, with diagonal pieces set in between side, breast and back seams, that continue into wide flowing hemlines. The jacket is complimented with rolling lapels that end in a pointed collar, whilst buttons are concealed inside fly-closures to grant trousers, body and sleeves a sleek and streamlined effect.

Gothic Gunslinger Coat sketch design.Gothic Gunslinger Cyber pants design sketch

Opus Cross

Relinquish, Modernistic-Gothic cross 3D model.Content to finally show this long-going 3D-design, that adroitly continues my lines in a solid piece of identification for both the blog and myself; this cross expressing perfect ratios, counting thirds for length to width and measuring sevenths in thickness.

Gothic cross with both straight and rounded endsThe concept commences with the layering of a straight and narrow cross on top of a wider one, with both having their ends cut following the inner triangulates connecting the cross’ mid points within their bounding box; and continues with dilating the under -cross, once for its sections and twice towards the ends, enforcing the piece’s duality by creating a rounded elegance that translates into facetting the plane when venturing into the third dimension, which adds a notion of leggy thinness to this rather robust concept.

Days of Challenge

Searching minimal waste pattern layout while maintaining perfect shine orientation.

Day 2: finding a flawless layout.

Redrawing pattern pieces, shifting seamlines 6mm to accomodate trim-tape width.

Day 1: Redrawing all patterns.

 
Using strips of interfacing to strengthen bias seams on loosely woven fabric.

Day 4: Interfacing the seams.

Using carbon and roulette for copying patterns onto raw silk fabric.

Day 3: Cutting the fabric.

 

No better than the first days into a project to show what impact seemingly aesthetic features can have upon construction; and such is the case for the golden trim-tape that is to be worked-in to overlay one side of the seams on the new cape design, shifting semblance in panel division to its own middle, calling for coherently adjusted versions of all pattern pieces, then to be laid out in perfect correspondence with the nap and shine characteristics of the raw silk, which after cutting, proves to be a very thin and loose weave, extraordinarily prone to deformation through pulling, requiring all seam allowances to become interfaced before handling.

Gathered Blouse

The gathered blouse might share certain properties with the other secondary shirts but manages a wholly differing set of techniques to approximate a corresponding bodyfit; the key characteristic being its augmentation with a great flat shoulder-disk that ensnares the vastly gathered body- and sleeve panels within a single continuous line breaking the sleeve heads in circumference of the bust; generating a dense monotonous drop of fabric, interrupted by added lines of gathering which tailor the shirt around waist and elbows. On the other side of the disk, the button-fastened neckline is rounded off by an analogously gathered collar, forming high-contrasting mirror effects between flattened and rounded fabrics; a feature that is distinctly repeated by the sleeves gathering in curving overhand-cuffs, buttoned for closing the wrists; taking a slightly opposing semblance to the blouse’s main flow, which is at last gathered directly within the hemline for maintaining a controlled appearance throughout the design.

Derived Pattern

Male gothic long corset battlegear pattern.Taking a moment to expose one of the mathematical challenges within the kind of work I do by deducing the alterations in an edit of the ‘longcorset’ patterns – here on display from back center to front center – in finding the correct way of hemline elongation for the design to work; having the bustier part of the pattern, correct in size and body-shape as developed in a first prototype, and re-approbating it in a cotton test-version cut following a preliminary pattern, brought to length through continuous straight lines in the same manner of lengthening a dress or coat, by trying to change the panels into shapes more adherent to the strong individuality of the – from the hips separately dropping – pieces, introducing small pleats for diverting them towards the flank-side of the outfit and retracing the outcome, combined with esthetical adaptions in order to ideally follow both shape and movement of the leg, thus creating this elaborate cluster of lines, attentively re-sortable into the finalized, fully to the design adjusted contortive-lined pattern, ready to be copied and harvested from the well-rested leather.

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