Category Archives: Technics - Page 5

Two shirts; Two Patterns

gothic tailored blouse patterngothic ruffle blouse pattern

Even though they follow the same body-measurements, the base patterns for these two secondary blouses are individually drawn as they immediately need to account for the small details in coupe that make up great differences in fit and shape; having one of these blouses being tightly tailored and the other wide in flow as two back-to-back productions I am now allowing myself to fully extrapolate on which details make up a look.

Pleat-collar Blouse

Recommencing the loop with a Secondary Design that was left out of the running during the past year, in order to return now, reinterpreted and ready for commission as one of 2012′s technically grander works.
Ruffle gothic blouse with pleated collar
This narrowly tailored blouse is to be constructed from a classic black silk, disposed through five seams (two rear, two sides and a frontal one) draping the fabric along the abdomen, displaying a segmented hemline that is echoed by the inset shoulder-piece which harbors a ruffle-collar look by holding individually cut solar-pleats traversing the resulting neckline - the highlight of the design – some of which continuing into mounting pieces that hold up the sleeves, themselves narrowing and thereafter widening as to reflect both the tailoring and angular hemline of the blouse into one continuously balanced ensemble.

Complicated Pattern

Sewing pattern for a complicated cape , that fits snugly around the shoulders.
Because the standard 4-piece arrangement never seems to provide a proper fit, I am applying earlier research to assess a shouldershape in between that of coat and cape, directly differencing between body and sleeve segments in a 10-parts construction, all of which embed darts to regain a suited fitting form, which, due to the loose and fluid nature of the cape, requires a lot of fiddling and tweaking, as all pieces have to cooperate and influence each-other at the same time; resulting in a set of patterns that might appear simple, but possesses a technical difficulty well above the other things I have done.

Subtle Symbolism

Gothic floorlenght vest coat design with intersecting architectural lines.
After upgrading the Cathedral Cape it is time to tend to the other ‘Architecturewear-project’ creation and further accentuate its concept-lines. Using the following sketch as a symbolic illustration of the flows manifesting through the seams that are making up the design; both distinct semblances are to be subtly represented by contrastive types of trim; with black braided lace covering the blue lines that follow and intersect with the reds, which depict placement points for a great mass of pewter buttons.

Decagonal Hat

Wireframe rendering for gothic fashion russian fur hat design.
Next up is an architecturally-grounded concept with a strong Balto-Slavic character to it, that is to be derived from merging short-pile fur onto lightweight greyboard in order to construct a diamond-shaped top-hat which exists out of four levels that continue the divergence of the regular decagon found on top, through a series of angular planes that are all measured to follow the golden ratio.
plan view for diamond cut fur hat
The decagon makes an excellent foundation for the project as its unique devision clearly distincts between front and flanked views, while being substantial enough to ascertain that for the chosen materials, the many surfaces will be reflected beautifully.

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