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Wrist Guards

Wrist Guards: Pattern Piece 1 and Puncture Guide Leather Wrist Guards Wrist Guards: Pattern Pieces 2 and 3

The Wrist Guards are mid-arm bracers that extend to cover the lower part of the hand without singling out the thumb, supporting secure grasp and full freedom of movement by curving along the hand-palm towards the inner underarm where they connect into an elastic lacing providing easy mounting and closing purposes.

  Download detailed instructions (PDF)                                                                                                

Fierce Collar

Capeline pattern, Collar patternHeavy-duty sew-on interfacing

The patterns defining capeline and collar for the Scarlet Cape, each exist out of five compartments circularly deviating from the neckline in frontwards growing intervals, that will be individually cut as incurvated pieces sewn together maintaining unity in velvet shine direction before being placed around a single piece of heavy-duty interfacing cut from the composite pattern with carved-out darts to uphold that tantalizing neck-curve.

Reusing Remnants

Transfering collar pattern onto interfacingIron-pressing interfacing onto collar lining.Transfering folded-collar pattern onto fabric

Cutting lining, interfacing and outermost textile for what is becoming a trademark shape of collar, this time in adaption exhibiting cascading layers conform to the intrinsic design of the Rider’s Vest, for which it is to become a removable extension-part, a supplementary addendum to adhere to a more wintertime regard.

Sleeve Pattern

Shortly after posting the preliminary patterns for the Marquis Coat, I realised my initial cut for the tailored sleeve would not ideally sustain the intended design, and even though the structural difference with the alternative coupe displayed in this post might seem abysmal at first, the logical transformations behind it aren’t little at all.

Marquis Coat Sleeve Pattern

The first adaption shifted the bulk of the flow from the upper towards the under sleeve to make the cuff fall on the back of the hand in the dignified manner of a jacket-sleeve, upon which came the realization how wrong it was to have added the godet girth in straight lines, when correctly following the elbow’s curve was even more important here for giving a soft and fluid forwards drop, together with the pieces orienting in a most favorable bias-thread direction matching the inwards folded segments of the complementary godet-piece (wilfullingly cut in straight lines) for allowing the sleeve to fall even further open when lifted and push itself in folds when allowed to drop freely.

Drawing Patterns

Marquis Coat, Body Patterns (back, side & front)Marquis Coat, Sleeve Patterns (inner & outer)Marquis Coat, Misc Patterns (collar, gilet-closure, shoulderpiece, backsplit godet)

Showing the preliminary patterns for the Marquis Coat: three body pieces continuing from the armhole into a strongly tailored waist where they gain massive flow (picture1); similarly tailored upper and under sleeves (picture2) connecting with inset shoulder-pieces in the rear (picture 3); a high cut collar, a gilet-closing to be worked in with the (in picture1, backfolded) frontal facing, and a godet piece to for the central back-split.

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