As a didactic example it was recently shown to me how horse-hair interfacing is properly fixated onto the under-collar, using a fascinating, yet strenuous, pattern of minuscule stitches attaching the inter-facing whilst forming the collar around your hand as you move, allowing you to pull both bias-cut layers simultaneously into a round fold, bestowing the rigid collar with an elegant roll-over.

With the Marquis Coat assembled in baste, it was time to call in my secondary model for making primary corrections.

Perfecting the overall fit demanded some taking in on each seam around the waist as well as slightly heightening the waistline itself to better manifest the godet-drop onto the hips and backslit.

With minor redrawing of the shoulderpiece, rounding its seams to gain more natural lines, next was selecting the right pads and adjusting the otherwise immaculate sleeve‘s head accordingly.

Having the spot-on collar directly cut in coarse interfacing, a small carefully tied scarf was used to determine the placement of the gilet-closure, providing the proportions to set the garment’s length, pinning hemline in place measuring from the ground up.