The latest of enhancements to the Cathedral Cape accentuates its shoulder-insets and the new collar’s contour by introducing a red rat-tail satin trim, sewn precisely on top of existing seams through sideways stitches picking strings from the back of the cord, slightly twisting and securing it across the sharper corners and locked in position; the first one included in the neckline allowance before the improved collar was placed, the other worked into the horizontal seam of the under collar, where it is met by the end of the frontal zipper, the sole fastener to carry the weight of this monumental garment.
Category Archives: Production - Page 7
Adding Trim
Posted by Discipulus
on December 16, 2011
2 comments
Cutting Fabric
Posted by Discipulus
on December 13, 2011
No comments
This instance of the routined cutting process proves that with some clever arrangement only very little material has to be wasted, letting the fixed patterns guide the fabric usage to outline the variable ones, shows the shape of the inset pocket being defined by the existing short short pieces, leaving as much as possible of this supple wool material to remain, supporting the possibility of making an addendum piece within the next years.
Four Sides to a Collar
Posted by Discipulus
on December 7, 2011
No comments
Under-collar Inner-side
Under-collar Outer-side
Upper-collar Inner-side
Upper-collar Outer-side
Revising the Cathedral Cape reminds there are not two but four sides to regard when making a collar, with the new under-collar’s four bias-cut pieces guiding its interfacing fold-line to bring the satin to shape while the upper-collar holds a reinforced set of straight-grain pieces, building dexterity as the collar’s visible face.
Raglan Inset
Posted by Discipulus
on November 23, 2011
1 comment
The red Raglan Blouse was made as such a narrow fit, that it came out with a slight issue in the armpit-area where the velvet would not allow the arm to be lifted any higher than the shoulder’s level, a difficult predicament for festive activities where movability is still prime, which is why I opted to rework the armpit, inserting a rounded trapezoid piece, now cut with the material’s stretch direction oriented along the length of the arm, forming a gradually expanding bridge that connects body and sleeve within the lower half of the raglan armhole.
Shoulder Adjustment
Posted by Discipulus
on November 18, 2011
3 comments
Overseeing the corrections on the Marquis Coat in a second fitting session showed a noticeable crookedness throughout the upper torso area, caused by the sleeve, seemingly tilting the whole of the coat backwards; a mishap often encountered in confection, yet easily correctable by redividing the ease on the upperside of the sleeve’s head to slightly turn the orientation of the sleeve within the armhole, preparing the coat for sewing.
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