Cutting lining, interfacing and outermost textile for what is becoming a trademark shape of collar, this time in adaption exhibiting cascading layers conform to the intrinsic design of the Rider’s Vest, for which it is to become a removable extension-part, a supplementary addendum to adhere to a more wintertime regard.
Shortly after posting the preliminary patterns for the Marquis Coat, I realised my initial cut for the tailored sleeve would not ideally sustain the intended design, and even though the structural difference with the alternative coupe displayed in this post might seem abysmal at first, the logical transformations behind it aren’t little at all.
The first adaption shifted the bulk of the flow from the upper towards the under sleeve to make the cuff fall on the back of the hand in the dignified manner of a jacket-sleeve, upon which came the realization how wrong it was to have added the godet girth in straight lines, when correctly following the elbow’s curve was even more important here for giving a soft and fluid forwards drop, together with the pieces orienting in a most favorable bias-thread direction matching the inwards folded segments of the complementary godet-piece (wilfullingly cut in straight lines) for allowing the sleeve to fall even further open when lifted and push itself in folds when allowed to drop freely.
Introducing the fantasy-inspired floor-length cape contrived by combining four wide-angle pieces of velvet scarlet, individually weighted down by a heftily interfaced border perpetuating the heaviest drape-like drop.
However more distinctive is the compressed capeline gracing the upper shoulder-line, constructed by combining narrow concentric pieces forming the neckline to reach back out, high up into the epitome vampire’s collar, maintained by garnished bronze clasps distinguishing the garment together with the burnished rings being confined by peripheral bonds encapsulating the capeline’s edges, holding on to a shackling of divergent bindings trailing frontwards while gently restraining the cape’s flanks’ flow.
As an extra idiosyncratic facet, the cape’s large masses may be shed off, leaving the capeline to allowing its bindings their full fall onto accentuating a tailored torso, enabling full freedom of bodily movement whilst continuing to uphold the same draconian shade in senseless manifestation.
Showing the preliminary patterns for the Marquis Coat: three body pieces continuing from the armhole into a strongly tailored waist where they gain massive flow (picture1); similarly tailored upper and under sleeves (picture2) connecting with inset shoulder-pieces in the rear (picture 3); a high cut collar, a gilet-closing to be worked in with the (in picture1, backfolded) frontal facing, and a godet piece to for the central back-split.
Multi-directional pattern pieces
Drawing border patterns
Accordingly Oriented Pieces
Cutting Pieces along the Nap
Displaying the groundwork that went into creating the border-frame for my interchangeable picnic blanket, attentively drawn paying utmost attention to material structures and the velvet’s tricky shine orientation.
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