Category Archives: Technics - Page 11

The Red Shirt Sleeve

Posted by on May 3, 2011 6 comments

The sleeve for the Red Shirt has become a work most intricate.

Red Shirt Right Sleeve Diagram

The design presents a play of manipulations on the sewn-in leap layers, using the 2/3 fabric excess to form various segments of folds and pleats.

Starting with flat folds locked into the sleeve-head, the in the outer half of the sleeve situated folds are picked up and sewn tight, forming Flemish pleats actively standing away from the sleeve surface in order to slowly fall back into flat folds along the way down.

At the top of the cuff, the flat folds are sewn in place, after which darts are introduced to bring the sleeve to half its width, making it fit around the wrist. To compensate for the reduce in girth, the inwards halves of the flat folds are folded over onto the other side, creating a diagonal line where consecutive folds meet.

 

At the wrist, the sleeve adjoins the pointy ruffles which are made from outwards pleats, allowing all visible foldlines to connect, contuining the sleeve at half width, whilst providing necessary freedom for the hand to fit through.

The Slanted Jacket

Posted by on April 27, 2011 5 comments

Devoid of side-seams, the fabric to be used for this waist-jacket will have it’s weft aligned with the (missing) sideline, making it fall in partial bias towards the front and central-back-seam, exhibiting, with an appropriate choice of fiber, a sideways diverging look.

Slanted Jacket Sketch

More perceptible, however, might be the extravagant hemline presented by both body and sleeves, traversing downwards in a motion concave in the front, yet ending  cuspy in the back.

Adorning this effect, while supplying a sense of changeability are the invisible zippers mounted in the jacket’s sleeves, going up all the way through the shoulder-line, making them, just like the jacket itself, able to be worn open or closed.

 

Five Days of Horns

Posted by on April 11, 2011 7 comments

Gothic Horns

Getting back to the notion of incorporating different shapes of horns into each primary outfit for this year’s WGT festival, I made this sketch-up to depict the evolution of size and directional placement throughout the five days.

 

 

 

 

Sleeve Pattern

Posted by on April 3, 2011 No comments

Deriving the Red Shirt sleeve pattern

The cutting pattern fot the Red Shirt sleeve can easily be begotten by copying the base-sleeve onto pre-folded pattern paper.

Doing so will also immediately add the required markings for sewing in the bondice-folds after the sleeve is cut.

The next step will be choosing connection points for the inward folds emerging from the sleeve head, and adding extra flow accordingly.

 

Drawing Patterns

Posted by on March 31, 2011 1 comment

cut-up textile base

← Cut-up Textile Base for the Red Shirt

Having found the corresponding design-lines on my body, I can trace these pieces onto paper, knowing they’ll produce an ideal fit from the waist upwards.

After making some corrective adjustments and adding flow towards the hemline, I’ll have derived the basis for the pattern pieces needed to construct the prospective garment.

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