The sleeve for the Red Shirt has become a work most intricate.
The design presents a play of manipulations on the sewn-in leap layers, using the 2/3 fabric excess to form various segments of folds and pleats.
Starting with flat folds locked into the sleeve-head, the in the outer half of the sleeve situated folds are picked up and sewn tight, forming Flemish pleats actively standing away from the sleeve surface in order to slowly fall back into flat folds along the way down.
At the top of the cuff, the flat folds are sewn in place, after which darts are introduced to bring the sleeve to half its width, making it fit around the wrist. To compensate for the reduce in girth, the inwards halves of the flat folds are folded over onto the other side, creating a diagonal line where consecutive folds meet.
At the wrist, the sleeve adjoins the pointy ruffles which are made from outwards pleats, allowing all visible foldlines to connect, contuining the sleeve at half width, whilst providing necessary freedom for the hand to fit through.
Still, when it comes to construction, these sleeves are less complicated than those on the White Shirt…