Category Archives: Production - Page 4

Including Trim

Adding sensitive trimlines onto rough fabric.The semblance of lines on the new cape is achieved from including long straps of half-bias tape between the fabric pieces, by aligning the tape with the seam allowance – measuring exactly half the tape width – before the seam is sewn, and pressing both ends to the same side to create a layover effect of fabric on trim over fabric. The downside of this approach lies however in the material choice, where the slickness of the polyester-satin tape would make it shift while being attached onto the fabric by machine, and just pinning it already created small unseemly waves in the trim’s structure, all these lines, including the full lengths, were to be sewn on to the fabric by hand.

Leather Merging

interfacing leathermerging two leather layersHand-sewn sideways leather layers

By securely gluing the block-puzzle-like seams onto eachother, the inner and outer corsets become merged, forming a twice-as-thick leather bodice-construction that perfectly hides the affixed interfacings between its layers, both of which can flex and flow independently whilst being bound by each other’s constant presence.

Selecting Yarn

How to select the righ color of yarn. It is not often that I find myself in this situation, but when leaning over the yearly bright-colored pick of fabric -fully prepared to start construction- cometh the realization that due to my habit of black-textile-restrictive shopping, I am without a matching yarn.

Luckily, being at the atelier offers a generation-long collection of boxed rolls remaining from repairs and alterations, from which a handy selection to suit the gather-blouse‘s fine blue satin was easy to procure; leaving me with a high enough number of shades to select not one but two matches from: a lighter to do internal stitchings and a darker for the visible ones.

Bound: Adding Interfacing

adding fusable interfacing onto leather piecesleather men's corset bound by anti-stretch interfacing

Having quality leather bring sturdiness and flexibility, the warmth produced by the body adds suppleness to the construction, allowing it to re-mold itself into a closer shape; a feature, no matter how interesting, one that also needs to be contained in order to prevent that repetitive movements could overstretch the leather.

Cutting Fabric

Preserving fabric through cutting it laid open.Having purchased this powder-blue satin with a less fabric-consuming conception in mind, finding a way to manage the voluminous design from the available meters was a core concern whilst drawing patterns.

With an ascertained gathering factor creating pieces arrangeable to span full widths of fabric; the lay-out of the sleeve and body parts requires them to be cut singularly from laid open textile as opposed to doing so with the fabric folded in double; adding the extra task of manually selecting left and right sides during cutting, turning the process more prone to errors, but delivering maximum flow without loss of fabric.

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