Monthly Archives: December 2011 - Page 3

Truly Special

A most intriguing find at a local antiquer’s shop, this stunning one of a kind Art-Nouveau nacre-imbued silver button appeared awaiting the days to shine as a key ornament on one of the acoming year’s primary outfits.

art-nouveau silver nacre gothic winged button

Adding Trim

Satin rat-tail trim-cords, one embedded within the neckline, the other worked into the mid-collar seam.
The latest of enhancements to the Cathedral Cape accentuates its shoulder-insets and the new collar’s contour by introducing a red rat-tail satin trim, sewn precisely on top of existing seams through sideways stitches picking strings from the back of the cord, slightly twisting and securing it across the sharper corners and locked in position; the first one included in the neckline allowance before the improved collar was placed, the other worked into the horizontal seam of the under collar, where it is met by the end of the frontal zipper, the sole fastener to carry the weight of this monumental garment.

Scarlet Capeline

Scarlet Capeline frontal viewScarlet Capeline rear viewScarlet Capeline: Standing collar detail
Scarlet Capeline: Lying collar detail
Scarlet Capeline: Trailing bonds detail

 

Casting off the massive cloth from the Scarlet Cape leaves a collared capeline, which holds the bronze rings connecting the bonds that are now free to rest under the arms, revealing an intricate dance-outfit on the go.

  ConceptDesignPatternsBond ConstructionAssemblageProgenitor                                                                                                

Versatile Fasteners

Right gilet closure, fastened with lining loops.Left gilet closure, fastened with stay buttons

The removability of the coat’s gilet-closure turned out to be an unanticipated challenge after several zipper experiments proved unsatisfactory, prompting the decision of affixing the two halves directly onto the coat’s facing and have them bend inwards instead, meeting them with stay buttons and closure loops on the lining, forming an actually more practical method of switching between the design‘s ‘open’ and ‘closed’ renditions.

Cutting Fabric

cutting short shorts pattern pieces from grey wool fabric

This instance of the routined cutting process proves that with some clever arrangement only very little material has to be wasted, letting the fixed patterns guide the fabric usage to outline the variable ones, shows the shape of the inset pocket being defined by the existing short short pieces, leaving as much as possible of this supple wool material to remain, supporting the possibility of making an addendum piece within the next years.

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