Category Archives: Technics - Page 8

Trois Quarts

A little less eccentric, but still positively goth-couture would be this concept of creating two cut-variants of a black-wool knee-long coat-design, portraying the corporate goth look into generally agreeable daywear.

Three Quarter Coat, rich winter variantThree Quarter Coat, embelished inter-season variant

The first, the warm winter version, is to be fashioned from a wealthily woven cashmere, tailored portraying a minimum in seams and embellishment, letting the material manifest its worth, leaving the coupe limited to: a by inset-pocket connected sideseam and frontal dart, transposed backseams and a high standing collar; with stitchings reserved for marking the fly-closures gracing the coat’s front, sleeves and backsplits.

The second, makes for a thinner inter-season variant, taking a visibly ribbed knit to be diversely oriented in cutting its disassociated pieces, using the material’s nap to provide a strong sense of direction; straight in separated side panels, biased in front and back, crossways in frontal box and collar; a slightly wasteful cut carrying a continuation of lines, bringing the coat’s worth to equal the value of its doppelganger.

Shirt Pattern

Green Shirt Pattern
Looking back at the patterns drawn for the Green Shirt may demonstrate how my designs are differing from mainstream productions by riveting with more playful compositions, but it also reminds how strongly my secondary items still adhere to the conventional cut, signifying the core dissimilarity between concept-lines, especially when viewed in comparison to an equally prolific primary piece.

Marquis Coat

Marquis Coat sketchThe first of 2012′s pieces I’ll get started on is a cross-section of archetypal early-18th and late-19th-century men’s frock coats, featuring diagonally cut pieces providing extensive flow on the hips, while being tailored fittingly around chest and waist.

Nudging towards higher couture, is the augmentation with shoulder-pieces continuing side and sleeve seam onto a prolific lapel-less collar, demanding the knee-length coat to be worn open, giving leeway to its volume.

This freedom of movement, aggrandized by a with volant finished split in the coat central back back-seam, is copied onto the sleeve, converging in a more contemporary sense of unity, much like the augmentation of the coat with an optionally insertable gilet-closure presenting the opportunity for a more reserved look.

Green Shirt

The Green Shirt sketch
On tracking back to pieces developed in 2010, I drew a new technical mock-up of the secondary design called the “Green Shirt”, a classical yet youthfully modernistic short-chemise featuring a play of 3cm-wide leap-layers, one horizontally traversing the back, two diagonally meeting in the front, four vertically overpassing the previous ones, delineating the sleeve and tailoring the shirt whilst traversing downward onto the hem in a composure slightly reminiscent of suspenders.

Repeating this image with more sets of three of such horizontal layers adorning the sleeve, all are secured with stitchings to ascertain a contemporary feel together with the timeless standing cuffs and collar, in this particular piece engraced with bow-tied ribbons for binding.

Rough Sketches

2012's rough sketches
Having already penned down most things I want to accomplish for 2012 during the weeks after the WGT, I have more recently been doing rough sketches as a means of personal pre-visualisation in order to be better able to draw up garment- (and at a later time outfit-) conceptuals, taking into account the fabrics already in my possession, and noting down what to look for in upcoming excursions.

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