Monthly Archives: May 2011 - Page 6

Pleated Ruffles

Ruffle sequence (1), drawn (2) and stitched (3) on pleated fabrics, turned inside-out (4)

Having stitched the jagged-line ruffle-sequence into the silk and lining (basted spread-open right sides together), turning them inside-out makes their pleats fall consummately into each-other.

Before doing so, there is still  the necessary notching of the seam followed by iron-pressing the slanting edges inwards,  in order to obtain discerningly cuspy points.

 

 

Another Level

Creative Photography on the Red Shirt Sleeve

Where home-making clothes in order to give a personal touch to a basic need for clothing is one thing, couture is the art of producing garments using quality materials in visually appealing constructions in order to make a person look better in achieving a perfect fit.

Fashion-art is the point in which couture becomes fine art (as opposed to applied art), employing textile with other sewables to construct impressions and shapes around the human body as a medium to channel designs inexclusive to dressmaking.

In general, the more expensive the material, the lesser the work that should be done to it, and the finer the craftmanship should be. However, in pursuing artistic conception dominates structure and design, imperative to the selection of fabric that serves best to carry them.

 

A little bit of everything…

Darts in RSS Wrong SideFolded-over layers on RSS Right Side

Reducing the Red Shirt Sleeve to half its width takes basting, sewing, folding, pressing, measuring, remeasuring plus above all: utmost attention.

The Red Shirt Sleeve

The sleeve for the Red Shirt has become a work most intricate.

Red Shirt Right Sleeve Diagram

The design presents a play of manipulations on the sewn-in leap layers, using the 2/3 fabric excess to form various segments of folds and pleats.

Starting with flat folds locked into the sleeve-head, the in the outer half of the sleeve situated folds are picked up and sewn tight, forming Flemish pleats actively standing away from the sleeve surface in order to slowly fall back into flat folds along the way down.

At the top of the cuff, the flat folds are sewn in place, after which darts are introduced to bring the sleeve to half its width, making it fit around the wrist. To compensate for the reduce in girth, the inwards halves of the flat folds are folded over onto the other side, creating a diagonal line where consecutive folds meet.

 

At the wrist, the sleeve adjoins the pointy ruffles which are made from outwards pleats, allowing all visible foldlines to connect, contuining the sleeve at half width, whilst providing necessary freedom for the hand to fit through.

Outsourcing

Pleated Silk

Industrially folded silk and lining to be used for fashioning the ruffles on the Red Shirt sleeves.

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