Leather Merging

Production

interfacing leathermerging two leather layersHand-sewn sideways leather layers

By securely gluing the block-puzzle-like seams onto eachother, the inner and outer corsets become merged, forming a twice-as-thick leather bodice-construction that perfectly hides the affixed interfacings between its layers, both of which can flex and flow independently whilst being bound by each other’s constant presence.

The Saturday Apparel

Concepts
Red elegant gothic aristocrat outfit.
Red elven gothic aristrocrat outfit.
Statuesque Gothic-windowed cape.
red dandy gothic aristocrat outfit
Gothic-window inset red-lace cape.
Androgynous red velvets.
 

Taking the beautiful leipziger Volkspalast as a backdrop for recording our presence during a most intriguing of saturday-noon performances, betoken by us as a couple modeling matchingly designed red-toned outfits.

Days of Challenge

Technics
Searching minimal waste pattern layout while maintaining perfect shine orientation.

Day 2: finding a flawless layout.

Redrawing pattern pieces, shifting seamlines 6mm to accomodate trim-tape width.

Day 1: Redrawing all patterns.

 
Using strips of interfacing to strengthen bias seams on loosely woven fabric.

Day 4: Interfacing the seams.

Using carbon and roulette for copying patterns onto raw silk fabric.

Day 3: Cutting the fabric.

 

No better than the first days into a project to show what impact seemingly aesthetic features can have upon construction; and such is the case for the golden trim-tape that is to be worked-in to overlay one side of the seams on the new cape design, shifting semblance in panel division to its own middle, calling for coherently adjusted versions of all pattern pieces, then to be laid out in perfect correspondence with the nap and shine characteristics of the raw silk, which after cutting, proves to be a very thin and loose weave, extraordinarily prone to deformation through pulling, requiring all seam allowances to become interfaced before handling.

Kitchen Sink

Chronicle

The moment, just after a lengthy and severly packed wayfare, when we check in to the welcoming Leipziger hotel, ready to re-arrange our room into a local base of operations for our stay throughout the WGT festival.

Packing for Wave Gotik Treffen festival, arrival at hotel.

Selecting Yarn

Production

How to select the righ color of yarn. It is not often that I find myself in this situation, but when leaning over the yearly bright-colored pick of fabric -fully prepared to start construction- cometh the realization that due to my habit of black-textile-restrictive shopping, I am without a matching yarn.

Luckily, being at the atelier offers a generation-long collection of boxed rolls remaining from repairs and alterations, from which a handy selection to suit the gather-blouse‘s fine blue satin was easy to procure; leaving me with a high enough number of shades to select not one but two matches from: a lighter to do internal stitchings and a darker for the visible ones.

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