Opus Relinque » sketches

Pleated Wrap

Discipulus — Sat, 19 Jan 2013 16:30:05 +0000

The first of this year’s new experiments is this pleated design for an elegant, yet manly wrap-skirt, to be made from one continuous piece of fabric and brought to shape by the insertion of a mathematical series of folds that are partially sewn-in to open at gradually lower lengths; condensing the seamless wide flow in an almost musical manner, leading a rhythm-guided way to the flat-falling front and back sides; all held in place by a slanting waistguard that carries a double buckle belt construction for closing.

Magnanimous Suit

Discipulus — Sun, 16 Sep 2012 19:26:10 +0000

As the couture project of my upcoming workyear, this new design of a knee-length suit jacket with matching trousers is to be a unique piece of men’s apparel, set to be created at the highest of standards. Sporting the Romantic-Gunslinger look with evident touches of futurism, both pants and coat are fully tailored by angular and sharp-edged seamlines, with diagonal pieces set in between side, breast and back seams, that continue into wide flowing hemlines. The jacket is complimented with rolling lapels that end in a pointed collar, whilst buttons are concealed inside fly-closures to grant trousers, body and sleeves a sleek and streamlined effect.

Gathered Blouse

Discipulus — Sun, 08 Jul 2012 18:56:17 +0000

The gathered blouse might share certain properties with the other secondary shirts but manages a wholly differing set of techniques to approximate a corresponding bodyfit; the key characteristic being its augmentation with a great flat shoulder-disk that ensnares the vastly gathered body- and sleeve panels within a single continuous line breaking the sleeve heads in circumference of the bust; generating a dense monotonous drop of fabric, interrupted by added lines of gathering which tailor the shirt around waist and elbows. On the other side of the disk, the button-fastened neckline is rounded off by an analogously gathered collar, forming high-contrasting mirror effects between flattened and rounded fabrics; a feature that is distinctly repeated by the sleeves gathering in curving overhand-cuffs, buttoned for closing the wrists; taking a slightly opposing semblance to the blouse’s main flow, which is at last gathered directly within the hemline for maintaining a controlled appearance throughout the design.

Intrinsic Transformation

Discipulus — Tue, 12 Jun 2012 11:49:26 +0000

A chief take-on for 2012 is this long-contemplated design for a tightly fitting full-body leather-construction to combine varying material girths while holding high adaptability through removable and adjoinable segments.

The unique corset-structure is a merger of nine precisely tailored waist-panels, six of which are cut in a continuous floor-length drop while the others sport a composite built allowing the excluding of the lower front and back panels.

The panels are layered on top of each other being fixated from chest to hips, falling freely in individual overlapping drops, with the added option of having their hemlines be buttoned together for them to function as a united piece.

Finally, the broad upper-lying flank to narrow underlying quarter piece sequention is repeated for the strong choker-collar that shares its back panels with those of the corset, containing a rump-long zipper as a central fastener for tightening the whole construction and emplacing the breastplate central to its w-shaped bodice.

Impressionnant Retake

Discipulus — Sat, 17 Mar 2012 11:46:32 +0000

Instating a new approach on the Cathedral Cape concept through this delineation on how contrasting-colored tape is going to be incorporated within the seam-lines, directly dividing fabric pieces in straightforward Art-Deco figures, highlighting the extra-ordinary structure of this new cape, starting from the pre-proven collar, over to the shoulders and inset godet windows, down to the all-around trailing hemline, bringing both unused techniques and materials into what will be one of my greater 2012 endeavors.

Pleat-collar Blouse

Discipulus — Fri, 02 Mar 2012 19:23:12 +0000

Recommencing the loop with a Secondary Design that was left out of the running during the past year, in order to return now, reinterpreted and ready for commission as one of 2012′s technically grander works.

This narrowly tailored blouse is to be constructed from a classic black silk, disposed through five seams (two rear, two sides and a frontal one) draping the fabric along the abdomen, displaying a segmented hemline that is echoed by the inset shoulder-piece which harbors a ruffle-collar look by holding individually cut solar-pleats traversing the resulting neckline - the highlight of the design – some of which continuing into mounting pieces that hold up the sleeves, themselves narrowing and thereafter widening as to reflect both the tailoring and angular hemline of the blouse into one continuously balanced ensemble.

Subtle Symbolism

Discipulus — Sat, 04 Feb 2012 19:53:11 +0000

After upgrading the Cathedral Cape it is time to tend to the other ‘Architecturewear-project’ creation and further accentuate its concept-lines. Using the following sketch as a symbolic illustration of the flows manifesting through the seams that are making up the design; both distinct semblances are to be subtly represented by contrastive types of trim; with black braided lace covering the blue lines that follow and intersect with the reds, which depict placement points for a great mass of pewter buttons.

Furry Leg-ins

Discipulus — Sat, 10 Dec 2011 20:24:30 +0000

After having taken some first exploratory steps into cyber territory last year, I wish to continue in that direction through a more architectural aproach over this time, for instance by augmenting a pair of very short shorts with plush legwarmers that emerge from the waistband, hug the outer sides of the legs and widen out from the knees, offering surface for working in another set of (this time, upscaling) glow sticks, while leaving angular portions of naked skin visible to be shaded by nets or leggings.

Green Shirt

Discipulus — Thu, 18 Aug 2011 20:25:10 +0000

On tracking back to pieces developed in 2010, I drew a new technical mock-up of the secondary design called the “Green Shirt”, a classical yet youthfully modernistic short-chemise featuring a play of 3cm-wide leap-layers, one horizontally traversing the back, two diagonally meeting in the front, four vertically overpassing the previous ones, delineating the sleeve and tailoring the shirt whilst traversing downward onto the hem in a composure slightly reminiscent of suspenders.

Repeating this image with more sets of three of such horizontal layers adorning the sleeve, all are secured with stitchings to ascertain a contemporary feel together with the timeless standing cuffs and collar, in this particular piece engraced with bow-tied ribbons for binding.

Aristocrat Shirt

Discipulus — Wed, 16 Feb 2011 21:28:48 +0000

At this point in time, the white aristocrat shirt makes for the most intricate amongst my designs, envisioned during the previous working year as a rather elaborate method for pushing up my skills onto a higher level.

Thriving in elegant flow and organic shaping the concept maintains a strong duality of form repetition and linear direction composed around a solid tailored base; brought to width by small folds dropping from the shoulder pieces while thinned at the waist through sets of centre-oriented darts that emerge from the uppermost one of the two forwards leading hemlines, which themselves are caught within the shirt’s central box-placket; at high contrast to the voluptuous fully pleated, ribbon-bound, sleeves; long enough to overlap their own continuation into sturdy mid-arm cuffs, finished with flourishing sets of pleated ruffles.

The work is completed by two complementary collars, whose respective Italian and French points are to fall flawlessly onto the outermost folds of the vigorous dual-layered jabot, itself a fluid repetition of the design’s prevailing features, echoing the cuspated hemline shapes with the division of the forementioned bust-pleats.