Opus Relinque » needlework

Inter-framing Windows

Discipulus — Mon, 07 Jan 2013 20:00:16 +0000

For a fitting framing, the gothic windows -just like the collar- are in need of proper interfacing, provided by a venerable form of coat canvas that’s resilient enough to brace the angles but not too brute on the curves.

Finished Armhole

Discipulus — Sat, 29 Sep 2012 19:11:00 +0000

The blouse’s armhole: meeting-point of sleeve and body, also needed to capture part of the collar and hold the earlierly hemmed lining, for which was opted to unite all those layers in a single seam and encapsulate their allowances with a hand-sewn bias border as a neat and simple way of finishing this conclusive joining.

Conclusive Cover

Discipulus — Sun, 04 Mar 2012 19:21:56 +0000

Trimming corners

Attaching border

Ready to Merge

Securing the seams

Trimming corners and cutting darts before stretching and cross-stitching all seams cleanly opened, leaving no excess material in the way of drawing the now finished cover over its dome construction; after which the newly attached border is to be wrapped over the padded crown, joining the fur directly onto its satin lining.

Stretchable Hem

Discipulus — Wed, 30 Nov 2011 20:26:36 +0000

In finishing neck-, wrist- and hemline for the tightly fitting red raglan blouse I opted to use borders from strips of the same velveteen fabric, cut evenly along the stretch-direction, stitched onto the piece’s right side using a narrow zig-zag and finely fixed against the wrong side by a loosened hem-stitch, minimally constraining the elastic fibers, allowing the blouse to faultlessly expand over the broader hands, head and shoulders while putting it on.

Scarlet Bonds

Discipulus — Mon, 29 Aug 2011 20:27:23 +0000

The from brass rings diverging bonds that grace the scarlet cape proved to be quite a task to make, needing the addition of internal poppeline layers to retain weight and interfacing, meticulous steam-brushing in order to get the seams pressed, to be followed by the laborious hand-work of attaching each bond onto its rings.

Forcing Godet

Discipulus — Mon, 15 Aug 2011 20:46:34 +0000

When surface-contact disallows flow abundance to fall into natural godet, a few well-located silk strings may serve satisfactorily, sewn in between the finished hems invisible during movement, but keeping just enough tension to guide the more voluminous top layer into an even division over the narrow base.

Finishing Touches

Discipulus — Sat, 28 May 2011 20:12:55 +0000

Introducing the Flemish Pleats in the leap-layers towards the head of the Red Shirt sleeve.