When trying to make maximal use of the little material remaining, dividing the front panel into a conundrum of pieces became the only option; joining leather frame with silk underground to create a natural resource combination that makes mistakes of any kind non-permissible and clarity in marking twice as important.

The concept commences with the layering of a straight and narrow cross on top of a wider one, with both having their ends cut following the inner triangulates connecting the cross’ mid points within their bounding box; and continues with dilating the under -cross, once for its sections and twice towards the ends, enforcing the piece’s duality by creating a rounded elegance that translates into facetting the plane when venturing into the third dimension, which adds a notion of leggy thinness to this rather robust concept.

By securely gluing the block-puzzle-like seams onto eachother, the inner and outer corsets become merged, forming a twice-as-thick leather bodice-construction that perfectly hides the affixed interfacings between its layers, both of which can flex and flow independently whilst being bound by each other’s constant presence.

..and basting them in sequence.

Cutting the individual pieces..

..and ironing in the folds.

Stitching the seams together..

Prompted by the delicate shine of the fabric, all 33 parts that make up this collar had to be cut alongside the same direction of the silky weave, introducing a total of 48 seams and darts that had to be basted and sewn before what might have been world’s most demanding ironing job could bring the whole formation to shape.

Two converse approaches in creating a pleated collar that covers the greater part of the shoulders; the first method succeeding by pleating shoulders and collar separately, leaving just one seam to sew, may it be an incredibly difficult one to perfect; and the other solution consisting of individually tailored collar-incorporating pieces providing a far more esthetically unbreached result, while requiring enormous travail to accomplish.

..carved from lightweight greyboard..

The Decahat dome construction..

..being covered by its satin lining.

..with added supports on the inside..

The hat‘s construction, erected from subsequent layers of thin, though rigid, greyboard, fastened using both adhesive and staples, here displayed in the process of being finished, receiving its lining on gently pressing the softly glued seams into the securely carved ribs, covering all bearings and face-supporting connections.

Under-collar Inner-side

Under-collar Outer-side

Upper-collar Inner-side

Upper-collar Outer-side

Revising the Cathedral Cape reminds there are not two but four sides to regard when making a collar, with the new under-collar’s four bias-cut pieces guiding its interfacing fold-line to bring the satin to shape while the upper-collar holds a reinforced set of straight-grain pieces, building dexterity as the collar’s visible face.

The illustrious queen-sized Picnic Blanket that accommodates two to three on a beautifully bordered soft molton, spread out over a waterproof underground, and protected from rain by internal lining, with three variant color-panels, interchangeable for setting the surroundings to extend the determined outfits’ mood.

Design – Textiles – Prepping – Patterns – Interfacing –                                                                                                   – Construction – Lining – Assemblage – Finishing – Inlay