Opus Relinque » patterns

Puzzling Panel

Discipulus — Sat, 19 Oct 2013 23:59:21 +0000

When trying to make maximal use of the little material remaining, dividing the front panel into a conundrum of pieces became the only option; joining leather frame with silk underground to create a natural resource combination that makes mistakes of any kind non-permissible and clarity in marking twice as important.

Patched Panel

Discipulus — Fri, 27 Sep 2013 13:44:39 +0000

Having the perfect material at home is a blessing turned sour when there’s just not enough of it to fulfil the project requirements, even more so when in lack of the time for a trip to the specialist store; sometimes the ideal moment to creatively make the maximum out of what one has and elevate the design to a higher level.

Differential Meetings

Discipulus — Sun, 31 Mar 2013 19:52:20 +0000

Due to the method by which the golden bias trim emerges from within the seamline to lay over the adjoining piece of fabric; gaining a symmetrical semblance when seamlines meet requires the correct calculation and incorporation of a hidden standoff, a tricky issue that re-manifests for each and every junction on the cape.

Converging Lines

Discipulus — Tue, 29 Jan 2013 04:06:20 +0000

Drawing sets of parallel-lines to denote the exact locations of the folds, the backfolds and the foldless parts while using their relation to the side, front and rear centers as key points to fuse the vastly amassing paper pieces together before including tailoring by redirecting the foldlines to deepen the pleats from the hips up.

Derived Pattern

Discipulus — Fri, 15 Jun 2012 17:41:32 +0000

Taking a moment to expose one of the mathematical challenges within the kind of work I do by deducing the alterations in an edit of the ‘longcorset’ patterns – here on display from back center to front center – in finding the correct way of hemline elongation for the design to work; having the bustier part of the pattern, correct in size and body-shape as developed in a first prototype, and re-approbating it in a cotton test-version cut following a preliminary pattern, brought to length through continuous straight lines in the same manner of lengthening a dress or coat, by trying to change the panels into shapes more adherent to the strong individuality of the – from the hips separately dropping – pieces, introducing small pleats for diverting them towards the flank-side of the outfit and retracing the outcome, combined with esthetical adaptions in order to ideally follow both shape and movement of the leg, thus creating this elaborate cluster of lines, attentively re-sortable into the finalized, fully to the design adjusted contortive-lined pattern, ready to be copied and harvested from the well-rested leather.

Cotton Base-Cape

Discipulus — Tue, 20 Mar 2012 19:48:11 +0000

Having discerned some minor adjustments in fit by testing its patterns in a cotton mock-up, the cape’s base is again applied to mark ideal seam positions in correspondence with the plan of integrated trim-lines by pin pointing the optimal esthetic correlations, replacing seams in accordance with concording undergarments.

Through a Stretch

Discipulus — Tue, 13 Mar 2012 19:29:59 +0000

Combining sequential polling with interpolation methods for copying and horizontally stretching previously drawn patterns to 2.4 times their original size; gathering sufficient girth in order to incorporate in-stitched ruffles all throughout the blouse’s body and sleeves, bringing it’s dimensions back to the original pattern.

Two shirts; Two Patterns

Discipulus — Thu, 08 Mar 2012 19:22:26 +0000

Even though they follow the same body-measurements, the base patterns for these two secondary blouses are individually drawn as they immediately need to account for the small details in coupe that make up great differences in fit and shape; having one of these blouses being tightly tailored and the other wide in flow as two back-to-back productions I am now allowing myself to fully extrapolate on which details make up a look.

Complicated Pattern

Discipulus — Wed, 22 Feb 2012 19:40:08 +0000

Because the standard 4-piece arrangement never seems to provide a proper fit, I am applying earlier research to assess a shouldershape in between that of coat and cape, directly differencing between body and sleeve segments in a 10-parts construction, all of which embed darts to regain a suited fitting form, which, due to the loose and fluid nature of the cape, requires a lot of fiddling and tweaking, as all pieces have to cooperate and influence each-other at the same time; resulting in a set of patterns that might appear simple, but possesses a technical difficulty well above the other things I have done.

Folding, Continued

Discipulus — Wed, 19 Oct 2011 20:33:32 +0000

Testing prototypes and preparing patterns for the next venture within the Rider’s Gear project: a couplet of angular underarm bracers which’s design follows the established construction process of folding from-the-centre-diverging, interfaced layers, making good use of the the remainder of my dense black velvet.