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	<title>Comments on: Cutting Cloth</title>
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	<link>http://blog.opusrelinque.com/2011/10/14/cutting-cloth/</link>
	<description>&#34;Documented Gothic Fashion&#34;</description>
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	<item>
		<title>By: Cutting Fabric &#124; Opus Relinque</title>
		<link>http://blog.opusrelinque.com/2011/10/14/cutting-cloth/#comment-1294</link>
		<dc:creator><![CDATA[Cutting Fabric &#124; Opus Relinque]]></dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Fri, 30 Dec 2011 07:58:26 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://blog.opusrelinque.com/?p=3245#comment-1294</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[[...] instance of the routined cutting process proves that with some clever arrangement only very little material has to be wasted, letting the [...]]]></description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>[...] instance of the routined cutting process proves that with some clever arrangement only very little material has to be wasted, letting the [...]</p>
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	<item>
		<title>By: Orphea</title>
		<link>http://blog.opusrelinque.com/2011/10/14/cutting-cloth/#comment-845</link>
		<dc:creator><![CDATA[Orphea]]></dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Mon, 17 Oct 2011 13:35:42 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://blog.opusrelinque.com/?p=3245#comment-845</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[thank you so much ^^]]></description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>thank you so much ^^</p>
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		<title>By: Discipulus</title>
		<link>http://blog.opusrelinque.com/2011/10/14/cutting-cloth/#comment-842</link>
		<dc:creator><![CDATA[Discipulus]]></dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Mon, 17 Oct 2011 13:03:58 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://blog.opusrelinque.com/?p=3245#comment-842</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[So, to sume it up for this coat; the velour pieces are knitted and do not need locking. The wool pieces are woven and were zigzagged before the garment is put in baste. The lining (woven) will most likely be left unlocked because nothing can get to it.]]></description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>So, to sume it up for this coat; the velour pieces are knitted and do not need locking. The wool pieces are woven and were zigzagged before the garment is put in baste. The lining (woven) will most likely be left unlocked because nothing can get to it.</p>
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	<item>
		<title>By: Discipulus</title>
		<link>http://blog.opusrelinque.com/2011/10/14/cutting-cloth/#comment-841</link>
		<dc:creator><![CDATA[Discipulus]]></dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Mon, 17 Oct 2011 13:00:48 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://blog.opusrelinque.com/?p=3245#comment-841</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[The last option is of course adding a lining to everything. Once the garment is finished, whatever cannot be touched or seen anymore  cannot raffle on its own.

For the Red Shirt for instance I made sure to have &lt;a href=&quot;http://blog.opusrelinque.com/2011/04/28/fashioning-slits/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;very wide seams&lt;/a&gt; all ironed open, and left them that way, as the whole garment is finished off by &lt;a href=&quot;http://blog.opusrelinque.com/2011/05/16/lining/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;lining&lt;/a&gt;.

Using a zig-zag to lock something delicate like this silk would have degraded the material, overlocking it professionally would have left unseemly marks when ironing the seams, and doing it by hand with such a &lt;a href=&quot;http://blog.opusrelinque.com/2011/02/24/the-red-shirt/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;number of pieces&lt;/a&gt; would have taken days to accomplish. 

So seeing as this was a non-washable piece from the start, leaving the seams unlocked was always the most appropriate thing to do.]]></description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>The last option is of course adding a lining to everything. Once the garment is finished, whatever cannot be touched or seen anymore  cannot raffle on its own.</p>
<p>For the Red Shirt for instance I made sure to have <a href="http://blog.opusrelinque.com/2011/04/28/fashioning-slits/" rel="nofollow">very wide seams</a> all ironed open, and left them that way, as the whole garment is finished off by <a href="http://blog.opusrelinque.com/2011/05/16/lining/" rel="nofollow">lining</a>.</p>
<p>Using a zig-zag to lock something delicate like this silk would have degraded the material, overlocking it professionally would have left unseemly marks when ironing the seams, and doing it by hand with such a <a href="http://blog.opusrelinque.com/2011/02/24/the-red-shirt/" rel="nofollow">number of pieces</a> would have taken days to accomplish. </p>
<p>So seeing as this was a non-washable piece from the start, leaving the seams unlocked was always the most appropriate thing to do.</p>
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	<item>
		<title>By: Discipulus</title>
		<link>http://blog.opusrelinque.com/2011/10/14/cutting-cloth/#comment-840</link>
		<dc:creator><![CDATA[Discipulus]]></dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Mon, 17 Oct 2011 12:26:44 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://blog.opusrelinque.com/?p=3245#comment-840</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[To do a proper overlock you need a separate machine, which I believe is not that expensive, although I don&#039;t currently have one myself.

On a regular machine you can just as well use a wide zig-zag program to lock your seams, making sure the needle catches the edge of the fabric with every other stitch. 
The result (&lt;a href=&quot;http://blog.opusrelinque.com/2011/09/28/on-locking/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;example shown here&lt;/a&gt;) works just as good as an overlock, especially on a heavier kind of fabric.

The only reason I&#039;d consider getting an overlock-machine would be for the really fine fabrics, like veils and silks, where the tension of the zig-zag thread is too strong for the lightweight material, making it gather or run in places if done this way. So these, I&#039;m afraid, are currently still being locked by hand. ^_^;]]></description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>To do a proper overlock you need a separate machine, which I believe is not that expensive, although I don&#8217;t currently have one myself.</p>
<p>On a regular machine you can just as well use a wide zig-zag program to lock your seams, making sure the needle catches the edge of the fabric with every other stitch.<br />
The result (<a href="http://blog.opusrelinque.com/2011/09/28/on-locking/" rel="nofollow">example shown here</a>) works just as good as an overlock, especially on a heavier kind of fabric.</p>
<p>The only reason I&#8217;d consider getting an overlock-machine would be for the really fine fabrics, like veils and silks, where the tension of the zig-zag thread is too strong for the lightweight material, making it gather or run in places if done this way. So these, I&#8217;m afraid, are currently still being locked by hand. ^_^;</p>
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	<item>
		<title>By: Discipulus</title>
		<link>http://blog.opusrelinque.com/2011/10/14/cutting-cloth/#comment-839</link>
		<dc:creator><![CDATA[Discipulus]]></dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Mon, 17 Oct 2011 12:09:53 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://blog.opusrelinque.com/?p=3245#comment-839</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[It mostly depends on the fabric whether locking is needed or not. Woven fabrics (one thread over the other) usually shrivel easily but knitted fabric (threads hooked together) or leatherlikes do not.

So, locking the later types would be a bit pointless, as it takes up a lot of time and won’t really help your end-result. 

In confection it is standard to leave the seams so short they have to be locked together to save them from ripping, but in general it looks a lot more professional to have 1 to 1.5 cm seam allowance left-in and have it properly ironed; open or both sides the same way.]]></description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>It mostly depends on the fabric whether locking is needed or not. Woven fabrics (one thread over the other) usually shrivel easily but knitted fabric (threads hooked together) or leatherlikes do not.</p>
<p>So, locking the later types would be a bit pointless, as it takes up a lot of time and won’t really help your end-result. </p>
<p>In confection it is standard to leave the seams so short they have to be locked together to save them from ripping, but in general it looks a lot more professional to have 1 to 1.5 cm seam allowance left-in and have it properly ironed; open or both sides the same way.</p>
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	<item>
		<title>By: Orphea</title>
		<link>http://blog.opusrelinque.com/2011/10/14/cutting-cloth/#comment-837</link>
		<dc:creator><![CDATA[Orphea]]></dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Mon, 17 Oct 2011 08:26:44 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://blog.opusrelinque.com/?p=3245#comment-837</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[i still have to start everything, but i have some stupid question you might be able to help me with, can i overlock with a normal sewing machine? cause i leave my edges quiet raw atm (not that i care when i wear them) but it looks more professional if its overlocked, help?]]></description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>i still have to start everything, but i have some stupid question you might be able to help me with, can i overlock with a normal sewing machine? cause i leave my edges quiet raw atm (not that i care when i wear them) but it looks more professional if its overlocked, help?</p>
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